The hinoki counter set for eight, with trays, folded towels and a glowing paper wall

The counter

Eight seats, one length of hinoki.

There are no tables at Hakobi. Everyone sits at the counter, everyone starts together, and the room stays quiet enough to hear the knife.

The chef in a white jacket shaping nigiri with both hands at the counter

The chef

Shaped at the counter.

Rice is kept at body temperature and shaped to order, a metre from where you sit. Each piece is meant to be eaten as soon as it is set down.

A low window slit beside the counter, looking onto a small night garden with a maple

A low window runs along the room, onto a small garden at night.

Your evening

How the night goes.

  1. Arrive

    Come ten minutes before your seating. The passage is the only way in.

  2. Sit

    Your place is set with a lacquer tray, a warm towel and chopsticks.

  3. Eat

    Small dishes, then nigiri one piece at a time, then soup. The longer menu adds five more courses.

  4. Stay

    The early seating ends before the late one begins, so there is time for tea.

A black lacquer tray set with chopsticks, a small dish and a folded towel on the hinoki counter

A few notes.

Two seatings a night.

Reserve the counter